The second one
Its lining-less construction type, makes this pair a perfect companion for a long walks in a hotter days of the year.
At this point, you probably know what was my next goal. Yes, to find that perfect fit! It didn’t take long for me to make a second guess, on the quest to create a pair of lasts that actually fits well. This time around it was a full success. My mother loves that pair so much that she still wears these today. She cherish every minute in them. I was so happy with the result that I even made one for myself, just to own something to match, using the same materials, to share that general vibe with her. Sweet!
It’s true that my focus was on the fit, but the design and construction type is rather cool, too. We both wear our pairs nowadays, sometimes even taking a walk together. I have to say, these pairs presents themselves pretty nicely. On one of those occasions, I took my camera with me to document that moment:
This is a unique privilege of a shoemaker. The ability of creating footwear, gives us the occasion for the original sense of togetherness.
My mother’s were basic stitchdown construction, nothing really fancy. Keep in mind, though, that the initial idea was to get a test pair to check the comfort and the general fit. Hence, the design was never a priority there. That pair proven to withstand the test of time, since - after all these years - they still works and looks just fine.
The shoes are completely lining-less. The cap toe and the heel counter part were used as pouches, to put the toe puff and the heel stiffener there securely.
The only detail, regarding this project, that I don’t like at all, is the absolut disaster of the facing design. This solution doesn’t work well, doesn't hold the foot good enough, doesn’t look great. Although it doesn’t matter to the wearer (my mother thinks it looks and works good), this is that one thing that I truly wish to execute in a different manner. Later on, I did provide some modifications, but this was my first take on this design.
Mine were a totally different beast. They are still a very nice ones, featuring my first Norwegian stitching method execution. I did it with the upper as well as with the sole attaching solution. That’s why there’s so much going on there. It’s totally busy, especially because I’ve used two-tone threads to spice it up. Also, the heel work was rather unique and different.
It’s not practical to have heels like that, but that wasn’t the point here. Technically, it was a challenge to execute that thing well.
Here’s how it was done:
At first, you need to perfectly fit the center shape on the surface of the previous lift, leaving the top piece there untouched. Then put your top lift in place. The heel breast work is also something else, in that particular example. I did put it together using opposite angles, in a zigzag fashion.
Of course, the top lift is not just glued on top of the grain surface of the previous lift. That would be lame.
You do your rasp, glass job as usual, though only around the center shape. That part of the center fitting top grain is additionally cut on the edges at an angle, so that you get an extra material to fit into the top lift’s shape and cut out the excess material after installment. One needs to be surgical here. Not a cave man’s task.
It was a feeling of accomplishment, on the mission towards mastering the skill of producing a custom pair of lasts.
After that, I understood that I know how the fit works. Although it’s always tricky. One can never ever be certain of that perfect fit. Even after a hundred years of experience. From that perspective, these marks a proper beginning of my career as a bespoke shoemaker going forward. At the same time, I’m fully aware that I’ll keep on as a journeyman on the quest. Until the end.